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| Binding thickness http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4032 |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:04 am ] |
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width .060 Height .190 plus .060 for side purfling for a .250 total. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:04 am ] |
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1/4 X .080 |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:06 am ] |
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1/4 x .07 |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:22 am ] |
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1/4 x .080 for most, but when I use .02b./02w./02b multi line side perf I will cut height to 3/16, though this is not often |
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| Author: | Tim McKnight [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 1:44 pm ] |
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1/4" x .060". My sides are usually .070"-.080" so that gives me a smidge of wood left. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 2:52 pm ] |
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.08 X .25 |
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| Author: | Shawn [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 3:21 pm ] |
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2mm X 6mm, not including side purfling, 7.2mm with a side purfling so it is in the same range as the others |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:06 pm ] |
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Stock martin binding is .060. I like to keep between .060 to .080 depending on what I am using. I like to use a few different heights. .180 to .225 John |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:39 pm ] |
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6mm X 2mm usually with a 1mm solid wood purfling. Colin |
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| Author: | Michael McBroom [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 2:13 am ] |
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A while back the topic of routing for binding was discussed and I picked up some useful pointers from folks here. I use 0.080 for my binding thickness, about 0.250 tall including the bottom purfling line. My problem, though, was that when I scraped down the binding I'd always have thin spots. It was suggested that the way to eliminate this was to route the channel a bit deeper and then to scrape the sides down to match the binding. So I tried two things the last time I installed binding -- I sized the binding to 0.090" and cut the channel to a 0.100" depth. This worked pretty well. By the time I finished scraping, I had no thin spots, and my binding was right at 0.080" Best, Michael |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 2:30 am ] |
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micheal, The thin spots come from the sides not being totally flat, and/or not perpendicular to the top/back. As long as you prep the sies good enough and make sure they are glued up at a 90 then you should no have thin spots.... That's easy to say, but I have a hard time with this too.... |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 2:46 am ] |
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2.5mm X 6mm with .7mm purfling lines |
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| Author: | Michael McBroom [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 2:59 am ] |
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[QUOTE=John Mayes] micheal, The thin spots come from the sides not being totally flat, and/or not perpendicular to the top/back. As long as you prep the sies good enough and make sure they are glued up at a 90 then you should no have thin spots.... That's easy to say, but I have a hard time with this too....[/QUOTE] Yup, if it were a perfect world and all . . . and if it weren't for the fact that I'm working with wood, which often seems to have a mind of its own . . . Nonetheless, following this good advice has provided me with a means for dealing with the slight irregularities that are almost inevitable. Best, Michael |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 4:39 am ] |
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I use binding jigs. This eliminates alot of that problem as the geometry of the radius is taken out. Use a little straight edge along the sides to see where you have these thin spots and open them with scrapers or files. Once you can afford the binding machines then go for it. They sure make the job easy. I think this and finishes are some of the harder parts of luthiery john hall |
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